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Considering the Prusa CORE One as first printer - any reason to reconsider? (lemmy.ml)
submitted 1 week ago by cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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I've been waiting to finish up with some major life stuff before diving into the world of 3D printers. Now that is finally behind me, and I am currently trying to find out which printer I want so that I can place an order.

So far I've set my eyes on the new Prusa CORE One. It ticks a lot of the boxes that I think I am after, including:

  • As open as I can get (before going into that Voron-stuff, which I think I'm not ready for). I don't want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I've seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don't really want to risk that. I want to be sure that I can use FOSS tools such as Blender and FreeCAD for design, and similarly open slicers, and the whole workflow will work just fine.
  • As future-proof as I can possibly hope for. I think the upgrade path from the MK4 to CORE One shows that they are serious about sustainability and longevity of their devices, and as far as I can tell, I should have no troubles sourcing replacement parts. I also want to support companies with this philosophy.
  • Has a decent print volume (I know there are bigger, maybe I will be constrained by this at some point?)
  • Enclosed - a major reason I did not want the MK4S was that it was not enclosed (but maybe you can get an enclosure?). It will be placed in my study where I spend most of my computer time (which often times is a lot, so I imagine I will be in the room while it is printing). I imagine, with the additional filter, that it will be better with an enclosure. Also, it will be easier to keep good temperature control during prints, as it can get cold here during winter.
  • Locally produced (I'm EU based).

I understand that other manufacturers provide more "bang for the buck" and that I in that sense will be overpaying feature-wise. I am fine with that given my emphasis on the above criteria.

However, I am a complete newbie to 3D-printing. I am sure there are some limitations I have not thought about, and I was wondering if there are any major things I have not thought about that would actually affect me negatively and should make me reconsider this model?

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[-] grue@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago
  1. When splitting a model into chunks, one important thing is to not just cut it along a flat plane, but instead design in tabs and slots so that the pieces locate and interlock.
  2. In addition to gluing pieces together with things like cyanoacrylate (super glue) and epoxy, it's also possible to solvent-weld them together with things like acetone or other solvents that depend on what kind of filament you're using (e.g. ethyl acetate for PLA). Such solvents can also be used for vapor-smoothing. They're relatively nasty chemicals, though, so you need ventilation and PPE and whatnot.
  3. Even an object printed as a single unit may not necessarily be watertight because of pinhole gaps between layers.
  4. In general, if you want your final object to be watertight, look good after being spliced together, or even just not look obviously 3D-printed, you should expect that you're going to have to sand/fill it (with e.g. bondo) and paint it.
  5. If you want to make something like a food-safe container or a sex toy (i.e. where it's important that the material both be non-toxic and not have any layer line crevices that could harbor bacteria), your best bet is to 3D-print a mold or blank, finish it as described above, and then use that to cast the actual finished part out of some other material like silicone or metal.
[-] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 week ago

Thanks for the write-up! :)

this post was submitted on 14 Dec 2024
34 points (97.2% liked)

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