[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 2 points 11 months ago

Still looking for a snake that's small enough. My normal goto, copper wire, is a challenge to use in small tubes as well.

25

I'm looking for some help researching how to clean long tubes, such as maybe 1/4 inch pickup tubes for a water pump that may be 20 feet long. I've been able to find hydration bladder cleaning kits that allow for cleaning the first 2 or 3 feet of these tubes, but beyond some sort of high pressure/high flow system with high caustic cleaning solutions, I haven't found a good way to swab out a long tube.

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 11 months ago

That is also something that I have wondered about, but that probably isn't a thing because of salt buildup.

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

That's actually part of my question. The bowels also dump toxins overboard as well, but will they be enough to do the job?

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I can totally see that, though what if the body was able to adapt to the new configuration and keep the gut bacteria in its place, but the urine still flowed into the bowels for reprocessing? What else would the large intestines pick up aside from water and maybe salt?

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

Then you'd be right back where you started for my purposes, still losing moisture unnecessarily.

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 6 points 1 year ago

I think that's called a bicycle.

51

I have wondered many times how a human would fare if the kidneys dumped urine into the start of the large intestines somewhere about the appendix instead of into a bladder to be sprayed out. I'm assuming water would be reabsorbed and slower to process out, primarily through sweat and evaporation from the lungs, and maybe diarrhea, though it may be that other waste products, such as salts or ureas may be absorbed into the large intestines instead of being ejected, though I have no idea if it would, or if it would be ejected as intended. Do we have any biologists here that could give insight on if combining both waste paths into one would be advisable?

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 4 points 1 year ago

The main two things I like about start menus is that it keeps all your apps out of the way, and in some resemblence of organizatoin, instead of just barfing them all out in one big cluttered mess, which is part of what turns me away from Apple, or Gnome. However, they're not as easy to use on touchscreens. That said, ads deeply nerf this advantage.

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I've found that it isn't in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What's the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

While I know I'm not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven't been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I'm asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago

I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

You mean 14 year-long user of Fisher Price products? :3

[-] Thurkeau@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

Looks good, though adhesives are notorious for failing once they get warm a few times, and will fail eventually. I would totally put a couple of screws holding them up. Beyond that, love the setup.

22

I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.

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Thurkeau

joined 1 year ago