Ugh, another post that's basically a link to a video. Here's a text article that describes the various credit score factors (from one of the major bureaus no less, so it should be accurate), and here's the general breakdown:

• 35% - Payment History - on time payments, late payments, and public records (e.g. bankruptcy)
• 30% - Amount Owed - in other words, credit utilization; the absolute amount doesn't matter, just the percentage of your available credit; keep under 30%, lower is better (per account also matters, so spread it around)
• 15% - Length of Credit History - average age of accounts and age of oldest account
• 10% - New Credit - hard inquiries (i.e. credit card applications)
• 10% - Types of Credit Accounts - "credit mix," ideally have multiple credit cards, mortgage or auto loan, etc

And some notes:

• things like collections stay on your credit for up to 7 years from the date of first delinquency, and reduce in impact as they age
• closed accounts help your credit (under most scoring models) for 10 years
• credit utilization has no memory, so you only need to care if you're going to be applying for credit in the next couple months
• generally speaking, 2+ years is pretty good per card, and 5+ years is fantastic; so if you're going to apply for a major loan, hold off on new credit cards until the loan goes through (i.e. you have the title in your name)

Hopefully this makes sense. Credit scores are kind of mysterious, but they are relatively easy to understand if you do a little reading. Pay your credit cards on time, keep cards open longer, and don't apply for a ton of new cards (unless you're careful about average age) and you'll have a solid score.

Edit: Here's an idea of what FICO score ranges mean (make sure you're getting a FICO score, many banks display VantageScore scores, which are rarely used in credit decisions):

• <600 - bad, you probably won't get any decent credit card or loan terms
• 600-650 - poor, you can probably get "easier" credit cards like Discover or no-rewards cards; loan terms will suck
• 650-700 - decent; can get most average credit cards, mediocre loan terms
• 700+ - good; can get most credit cards, pretty good loan terms
• 750+ - top tier loan terms, you're probably more limited for credit cards by income and total credit, not score

The max is 850, but anything >750 is essentially ideal, you're really not going to see much difference with a higher score.

I don't care what the score means, I just don't want to have to hire a lawyer, and a watchdog, and a monitoring agency, to keep someone from stealing my identity on a network I have no control over.

is there a version of this in article form? i have a hard time watching videos.

This is the best summary I could come up with:

When credit scores were invented just a few decades ago, they were hailed as a way to democratize lending.

Today, they’ve become so essential that not having one can lock you out of daily life.

Having a low score can make life challenging, too.

These scores have a long history — and a lot of problems.

In this video, we’ll show you where they came from, how they’ve changed over the years, and explain what that three-digit number means for you.

Secret doesn’t have a say in our editorial decisions, but they make videos like this possible.

The original article contains 118 words, the summary contains 97 words. Saved 18%. I'm a bot and I'm open source!